IfTheRingFits

Setting styles, and what actually fits them

A setting is quoted for a range of centre stones. Go outside it and the stone does not sit: the girdle rides up on the prongs, or it drops through. This is the question almost no size guide answers.

Retailers describe a head by the carat range it accepts, so that is how these are held here. The millimetres are derived with the same weight-to-dimension conversion the rest of the site uses, which is why the seat figures below and the tool always agree.

The seat is a range because the head is made in a range. When you pick a style in the tool it works out the one seat your stone should be ordered in, which is a figure inside the span below rather than any fixed point in it.

The common styles

StyleQuoted forSeat rangeWhat it means
Solitaire0.75–2.00 ct5.85–8.11 mmClassic single stone. Shows the most of the girdle.
Halo0.50–1.50 ct5.11–7.37 mmAccent stones ring the centre. Only the centre seat is modelled.
Three stone0.75–2.00 ct5.85–8.11 mmSide stones flank the centre, which tightens the seat lengthwise.
Bezel0.50–1.50 ct5.11–7.37 mmA metal rim fully surrounds the girdle. Least tolerance for a misfit.
Cathedral0.75–2.00 ct5.85–8.11 mmShoulders sweep up to the head, so the stone sits higher.
East–west1.00–2.50 ct7.91–10.74 mmAn elongated stone turned across the finger rather than along it.

These are approximate reference values, not manufacturer specifications. Typical clearances run a tenth to half a millimetre, so half a millimetre of error flips the answer. Use the figure from the actual product page whenever you have one — the tool takes a seat diameter directly.

Why the axis matters

A round seat is limited by the stone's width in every direction. A three-stone head is tightened lengthwise by its side stones, and an east-west setting turns an elongated stone across the finger rather than along it. So the dimension that has to fit changes with the style, not only with the size: an oval that sits happily in one may foul another at exactly the same carat.

Check a stone against a seat →

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